Houston's growing season runs nine or ten months, hurricane season runs six, and the oak wilt danger window covers five — which means the right month matters as much as the right technique for nearly everything you do in a Gulf Coast yard. Prune an oak in April and you risk the disease that has killed millions of Texas trees. Lay sod in December and it may not root before a freeze. Fertilize in February and you feed the winter weeds, not the grass. This calendar puts trees, lawn, and landscape on one page, season by season, with links to our deeper guides on each job — so the work happens in the right order, at the right time.
Why does timing matter more in Houston than elsewhere?
Three forces set the Gulf Coast calendar. First, oak wilt: the sap beetles that spread it are active roughly February through June, so oak pruning belongs in the dormant window of mid-November through late January, with July–August as a secondary option. Second, hurricane season, June 1 through November 30 — tree prep has to be finished in May, because once late-May forecasts release, every crew's calendar fills within days. Third, our warm-season grasses: St. Augustine, Zoysia, and Bermuda grow most of the year here, but they only take fertilizer, sod, and seed at specific soil temperatures. Add expansive clay that swings between saturated and baked hard, plus 50+ inches of annual rain, and you get a yard that rewards the homeowner who works with the calendar instead of against it. The good news: none of the work is complicated. It just has to happen in the right month.
What should I do for my trees and lawn in winter (December–February)?
Winter is tree season. The dormant window — roughly mid-November through late January — is the safest time of year to prune oaks, because the beetles that spread oak wilt are inactive in cold weather. It's also when structural problems are easiest to see: with no leaves, co-dominant trunks, crossing limbs, and deadwood are all visible from the ground. Book major trimming and pruning work now, before the window closes at the end of January. The lawn, meanwhile, is dormant — an occasional cleanup pass for leaves and winter weeds is all it needs, and this is the season to spot-treat cool-season weeds before they set seed. February is planning month: get estimates for spring landscaping projects, and when a hard freeze is forecast, water young trees at the roots beforehand and cover tender plants.
What should I do in spring (March–May)?
Spring is when the lawn and beds wake up — and when oak pruning stops. The oak wilt danger window opens in February, so any oak cuts from now through June should be emergency-only, sealed with pruning paint within minutes. Everything else accelerates. Fertilize the lawn after it has fully greened up and you've mowed real growth once or twice — usually late March into April; feeding earlier wastes nitrogen on weeds. Refresh mulch to a 2–3 inch depth across every bed; our Houston mulch guide covers types and quantities (one cubic yard covers about 100 square feet at 3 inches). Spring through early fall is also the window to lay new sod, once the soil warms. Mowing ramps from every 10–14 days in March to weekly by May. And in May, walk your property for hurricane prep — assessments book out fast.
What should I do in summer (June–August)?
Summer is defense. Hurricane season opens June 1, and tree prep — hazard-reduction cuts, wind-sail thinning, dead-wooding — should already be done; if it isn't, call immediately, because the hurricane-prep checklist takes weeks to schedule once storms are on the map. The lawn hits peak growth: mow weekly (fast-growing, well-watered Bermuda may want every 5–7 days), and never remove more than a third of the blade in one cut — our month-by-month mowing guide has the full cadence and heights by grass type. Water deeply and infrequently, in early morning: established trees in our clay rarely need irrigation, but new sod, young trees, and flower beds do. July and August are the secondary safe window for oak pruning if you missed winter, since beetle populations drop in the heat. And keep that 2–3 inches of mulch on the beds — it's worth real degrees of soil temperature in August.
What should I do in fall (September–November)?
Fall is planting season. October into winter is the best time to put a tree in the ground here — roots establish through our mild winter, so the tree faces its first Houston August with a real root system. Choose a species that earns its place for 50 years; our best-trees guide covers what to plant and what to avoid. On the lawn, September stays at weekly mowing, October slows to every 10–14 days, and November brings the last regular cuts. Early October is the moment for a fall feeding, aeration of compacted areas, and — if you want green grass all winter — overseeding with annual rye once soil temperatures drop. Skip late sod installs; October–November sod needs extra care to root before a freeze. Mid-November, the oak pruning window reopens: book winter tree work now, because January slots fill by fall.
What are the biggest timing mistakes Houston homeowners make?
Five come up constantly. Pruning oaks in spring — the most dangerous mistake on this list, since February–June is peak oak wilt transmission; if a storm forces a cut, seal it within minutes. "Crape murder" in late winter — topping crape myrtles is never necessary, and topping any tree trades a decade of health for one afternoon of chainsaw work. Fertilizing in February — the grass is still dormant, so the nitrogen feeds winter weeds instead. Laying sod right before a hard freeze — unrooted sod doesn't survive one. And skipping May hurricane prep — after Hurricane Beryl in 2024, nearly every tree we pulled off a roof was one that hadn't been assessed in five or more years. None of these mistakes costs much to avoid; all of them are expensive to undo.
What does the whole year look like at a glance?
Print this list, stick it on the garage wall, and you'll never miss a window. Every date here assumes the Houston Gulf Coast — inland Texas calendars run two to four weeks different, so ignore generic national advice.
- January: Prune oaks — the safe window is open. Lawn dormant; plan spring projects.
- February: Oak pruning window closes. Pre-emergent for spring weeds; watch for late freezes.
- March: Lawn greens up — mow every 10–14 days. Refresh mulch to 2–3 inches.
- April: Fertilize after full green-up. Lay sod. No oak pruning until July.
- May: Hurricane prep — assessments, wind-sail pruning, dead-wooding. Mowing goes weekly.
- June: Hurricane season opens. Weekly mowing; deep, infrequent early-morning watering.
- July–August: Secondary oak-pruning window. Water new plantings; keep mowing weekly.
- September: Still peak lawn season — weekly mowing. Plan fall planting and bed projects.
- October: Plant trees. Fall feeding, aeration, overseed rye. Mowing slows to 10–14 days.
- November: Oak window reopens mid-month. Last regular mows; leaf cleanup begins.
- December: Dormant pruning and structural tree work. Cleanup mows only.
Who handles all of this?
The advantage of one crew that does all three — trees, landscaping, and lawn — is that the calendar coordinates itself: the same visit that preps your oaks for hurricane season can flag the drainage problem drowning your St. Augustine, and the crew laying your fall sod knows not to bury the root flare of the live oak next to it. See tree trimming and pruning, landscaping in Sugar Land and Fort Bend, and lawn care and mowing for what each service covers. We run the same crews and the same equipment across Sugar Land, Riverstone, Katy, and the rest of Fort Bend County year-round. Call (281) 626-9111 or book online and we'll build your property's year around the right dates.